Preserving Culture in Baghdad: A librarians Journal

From explosions that shook the building to heating fuel prices that are 40 times higher than in the fall to assassinations and death threats among his staff–Saad Eskander, the director of Iraq’s National Library and Archive in Baghdad, has faced these and many other challenges in his efforts to keep the system operating. Eskander tells his story in diary entries that have been appearing on the website of the British Library. An article chronicling his work also appeared on February 7 in The New York Times.

Hajj Day 3

I’ve been reading the Arab News online recently to get news from a slightly* different perspective.  Of particular interest is a columnist who posts daily commentaries on the the hajj.  As a non Muslim, I find these writings quite insightful.

 Dul Hijjah 10 (the third day of the pilgrimage) is always a very hectic day for the pilgrims. After spending the night in Muzdalifah, they have to stone the Great Satan, then there is the sacrifice and next, they must take care of all the necessary steps to be released from ihram — their state of consecration. Finally, many move on to the Holy Haram to perform tawaf. So most do not have the energy to be concerned with anything happening out in the larger world. Many people came to know about Saddam’s hanging through text messages from their relatives. Texting is a very popular form of communication at the Haj and people are kept updated with the situation at home through text messages from relatives and friends. Pilgrims are frequently seen stopping to read incoming messages on their mobile phones, oblivious to the fact that they are blocking pathways.

source 

Fulbright to Syria and Turkey

GROUP PROJECT ABROAD: TURKEY AND SYRIA

Religious Pluralism as Exhibited in Two Secular Muslim States
MCCA and the Center for International Community College Education at UMSL have submitted a grant proposal to the US Department of Education to send 15 community college and secondary school faculty to study and travel in Turkey and Syria during the summer of 2007. This four and a half week program will begin on June 7^th in St. Louis with an orientation, and end with the return to St. Louis on July 8^th. We are now soliciting

applications from community college and high school faculty who would like to participate. Please distribute this announcement and the attached itinerary and application information throughout your institutions and to high schools in your region.

This travel-study experience will examine the cultures, practices, belief systems and interactions between the principle religious communities in Turkey and Syria. The planners have confirmed with the US Department of State that travel is approved for U.S. citizens in Syria, and travel in these countries is considered safe under current international conditions. Selection of final participants will be made based upon:

1. Demonstrate commitment to the goals and objectives of the project;
2. An interest in traveling in the Near East, with little or no prior experience in the region;

1. Demonstration of the value of the experience to their area of instruction, and commitment to developing a course module based on their experience and study. 

1. Diversity and balance on the team; with emphasis on discipline, gender, ethnicity, region, college/secondary balance;.

1. An expressed commitment to participate in follow-up activities upon return, including development of curriculum units, participation in local, regional and/or national forums, short-term seminars, lectures and interviews, distribution of acquired materials, encouragement of students to study abroad, and compliance with priorities of the grant;

1. US citizenship or permanent resident alien status;

1. Evidence of good health, sufficient to withstand the rigors of travel, and of commitment to willingly and enthusiastically participate in the expected activities of the project, with an understanding that this will involve the routine challenges of working, living, and socializing in different and unfamiliar environments. 

    

For Information, contact Kent Farnsworth at UMSL, 314-516-6528 or by e-mail at

farnsworthk@umsl.edu. Participants will be selected by the end of February, 2007 through an application and interview process. (Interviews may be by phone.) 

Application deadline: January 31, 07      Anticipated Applicant Notice:  Mar 1, 07

What Interested Parties Should Consider When

Applying

1. The project will include two weeks travel and study in Syria, and two weeks in Turkey. Individuals may not obtain a Visa to enter Syria if they have traveled to Israel or Egypt on their current passport. (A new Passport could be obtained.)

1. The group will be directed by three individuals experienced in travel and group direction in this part of the world, two of whom are native to these countries.

1. Out-of-pocket expenses will total about $300 for passports, insurance, gifts, etc. Participants must also cover travel to St. Louis for the program, and from St. Louis home. They will also be expected to cover expenses for lodging, meals, etc. before leaving the country, but these will be kept at a minimum. All international expenses, aside from personal items, will be covered by the grant, if funded.

1. During the program, participants will live with a roommate (of the same gender), and this is not optional. Family, friends, and others not selected as part of the applicant process may not accompany the participants.

1. Travel will include a fair amount of walking, will involve spending a few days and nights with villagers in rural areas, and participating in the normal activities of Near Eastern life. Applicants should be comfortable with some rigorous exercise, and with interacting with different cultures in unfamiliar circumstances.

1. Participants will be interacting with representatives of diverse Muslim, Christian, and Jewish communities, and are expected to approach these interactions as learning experiences, rather than as opportunities for debate or evangelizing.

1. In addition to the requirement to develop a curriculum module appropriate to the participant’s discipline, each member will be expected to make a minimum of three presentations to civic, church, educational or other groups upon their return, including one to an elementary or secondary school audience.

1. MCCA/CICCEL may not receive this grant, and applicants may go through the entire selection process, only to learn in April that the project has not been funded. This process should not involve expense to the applicant. Those selected must be committed to go, however, if funding is received.

All this being considered, this project will provide participants with once in a lifetime opportunities to visit some of the most significant sites in Jewish, Christian and Muslim history, including Ephesus, Damascus (the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world), the home and tomb of the great Sufi Poet Rumi, to meet the Grand Mufti of Syria, to stay in an Eastern Orthodox Convent, and to enjoy the hospitality of Turkish and Syrian villagers.  (See daily itinerary, attached.)

Looking at the Big Picture

Now that I’m back home, I’m trying to prepare for the “what were your impressions” questions.  I’m too overwhelmed to come up with a good answer right now, so I’ll seek some inspiration in a few photos.  I’ll come back with couple of closing posts to answer that question and to leave some resources on the Kingdom.There will always be dates and cardommon coffee

The development of the modern

country of Saudi Arabia was strongly influenced by the development of Aramco

hidden treasures such as these caves

Foriegn workerssuch as these women from  Eritrea.

the astrolab

and McDonalds

People, places, Things

  Mosque in Dharran

Private Home in Jeddah 

School in Jeddah

On the Red Sea Coast

Burger King; Dharran

Camels, Classrooms, Caves and the Capital

A rare treat: A trip to a camel market. Most Saudis never see camels because they live in large cities.

Need to get a camel off a truck? Here’s how!

Taken in a Kindergarden classroom in Riyadh. Notice that on the Islamic calendar, the day, date and year are completely different. Boys and girls are in the same classroom at this age.

Student artwork.

In Riyadh, you will want to eat at the Globe Restaurant in this building. In fact, look toward the top of the building and you can see the Globe!

We had the rare opportunity to meet with members of the Education Committee in Riyadh and sit in on the Shura Council as they met on Human Rights issues . Men sat on one side and women sat on another, protected behind mirrored glass. Six women, each with advanced academic degrees, have recently been appointed to audit the Council sessions. They were present when we attended.

If you look at previous posts, you’ll be able to see more photos that I’ve just added!

On the Road

It really doesn’t take a visitor too long to realize the Saudi Arabia they’re seeing is not quite what they expect. Indeed, many of our expectations are based in 25 year old images and re-inforced in a media that delivers everything buth the truth. From movies to talk shows to the evening news, we don’t learn of how the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is develping (KSA). Governments interact and develop relationships but real understaning has to begin with the people. So, let me try to paint a picture of what I have seen.

Saudi Aramco brought wealth to the Kingdom through oil and from that came growth and development with is being sustained by diversifying the economy, developing infrastrure and welcoming multinational companies.

The most profound image of my day was from my drive along the coast. All along the beach were Saudi families enjoying the first day of their weekend (Thurs and Fri are the weekend here.) There were groups of women in their abayas, large family gatherings, people on jet skis and boats and brightly colored amusement attractions. The median dividing the highwat had many peices of modern art, anything from a large wrench to a birthday cake to a faucet to all kinds of abstract designs. Street signs are in Arabic and English indicating where to find the Corniche, the city center, sea port or gateway to Mekkah. Other streets along the way are filled with Kentucky Fried Chicken, McDonalds, Toys R Us and Burger King, European designer’s shoppes, many stores with the latest women’s fashions, fire stations, mosques or high rise business centers. Marigolds and petunies often line the road.

The call to prayer can be heard, but it hasn’t always been obvious. Drivers will sometimes stop during the day when the call is heard. Local newspapers list the times each day that the call will be given. Hotel rooms will indication the direction to Mecca with arrows placed in out of the way corners. Korans and rugs are provided for the needy traveller.

Driving is interesting to watch! Cars no different from those I see in at home drive in a manner which made automiblie accidents the number one cause of death in the kingdom, and this is with no women drivers or alchohol in the country!

Staying inside looking at television I can see shows from US, UK, Lebanon, Egypt, Yemen and India just to name a few! This variety, like the variety of food, art and architecture, indicates the crossroads the KSA has always been.

Students may think they would like to live here because there is no compulsory education. However,, this is creating a huge gap getween the haves and the have nots. Those who are affluent are able to attend private schools and study in any country they choose, while public school students have a textbook based curriculum heavy on drill and repitition. All schools do have libraries!

I’ve eaten delicious foods I cannot name: Grilled chicken dishes, grilled eggplant with balsamic vinegar, greads and lobster soup, and Om ALi, a very delicious Egyptian bread pudding.

At dinner we have interesting conversations with Saudis who are quite fluent in English (most private schools teach in English) Last night, we had a discussion on basic differences within Islam and Christianity and realized the importance of interpretation. We realized we would each leave the table with our own interpretation of the converation, as will most reading this blog!

I’ve been amazed by the huge cross-section of people I’ve seen. Workers from Nepal, India, Pakistan, Eritrea and the Phillipines. Students from Tunisia, Egypt, Turkey and Syria. Business men from US, Europe and Africa.

And I will still have so much to tell when I get home!

Leaving Jeddah

I have a few minutes before we board the bus, so I thought I would post again.

A few random discoveries:

There are no public libraries.

70% of the population live in tribal/rural areas.  Education isn’t mandatory and the lifestyles are very traditional.

We visited a state of the art hospital today.  Men and women are not separated when being treated.  Men can have male nurses or doctors as can women.

A real area of contention among Saudis in the difficulty in getting visas from the US.

English is widely spoken.  In the large cities, signs are in Arabic and English.

Cardammon coffee and tea are quite popular.

The architecture, food and household items give evidence of a blending of cultures.  A similiarity with the US!

Polygamy is still practiced.

I’ve been corresponding with my children via text message.  Some folks are using Skype to talk to family at home.  Then there are always land lines and phone cards.  We get our news from CNN and Arab World newspaper.  Only US magazine I’ve seen so far in Arabic is National Geographic.

My hotel room overlooks the Red Sea.  I’ll miss the gorgeous view!  Gotta run!

Wednesday

Am currently in Jeddah. This city is the gateway to the Two Holy Cities. It is the city where Eve is buried. It is where the Hajj begins.

Right now, it is a city at 11:30 pm at night and this business center closed 30 minutes ago… I have to type fast. How are visitors welcomed? Very graciously! I don’t think they would have told me ‘no’ you cannot use the business center now! Their nomad traditions through the ages have been those of hospitality and kindness. We are always greeted with food (usually dates) and cardammon coffee. Extremely warm culture! Yea, there are those extremes… People are not always the same.

We’ve learned so much! We’ve met with numerous people in official and unofficial capacities. The dialogs are always quite frank and honest and this is definitely what we need on a personal level to maintain peace and understanding. Most often in our converstaions, the press rather than the government is blamed for misunderstandings. Women are quick to tell us that Oprah does not represent all Muslim women. Not all are abused and walk behind their husbands. One young lady said “Yeah! My dad is a nice guy!” All universities are single sexed. We visited a women’s business college today. It is attended by women from all over this region. They all wear the abaya, but I don’t think I’ve seen two abayas that look the same. Heads are covered when men are present. I am sitting here in an abaya now but have not had to cover my head.

We women cannot use exercise equipment or the pools at the hotels, but the women here have learned how to work around the system, and with the support of progressive men, changes are being made. The women we met do not feel oppressed. Rather, hopeful and empowered. It’s interesting that has women enter the job market, they are entering at the upper levels.

Schools…we’ve only visited private schools. There is a national curriculum that is text book rather than standards based. The teachers in the private schools feel they are in an ideal situation. They don’t deal with social issues faced by students like many of us in public schools. They particularly like the pay and the perks. If any one is interested, I do have a recruitment video from Aramco schools

We met with the editor of the Arab News today, visited a wonderful museum developed by a local women artist. Most museums and libraries are private. There is one government museum in the capital, no public libraries.

It is much hotter here on the west coast than it was on the east coast. The food is a blending of dishes from Egypt, Lebanon, Turkey and other mid East countries.

Will write more as soon as possible. Going to a village near the Red Sea tomorrow.

Happy Turkey Day!!

Sunday?

I have to begin by saying Internet access here is difficult to say the least, so my postings may be less frequent than I had hoped. We estimate that we arrived here after about 26 hours in airports and airplanes. The flights were fine and the movies were “Devil Wears Prada” and “Pirates of the Caribbean”. We made it to our hotels\ here in Dharhan yesterday evening and were exhausted! The week here begins on Saturday. First thing this morning (6:30 am) all ladies were fitted for abayas. Men will not wear thobes. The abayas are more of a religious dictate while the thobes are cultural tradition. We had a huge breakfast buffet with breads, hummus, tabouleh, (disclaimer: please excuse my typing and spelling errors, it is late!) three varieties of eggs, pancakes, french toast, dozens of fresh fruits, sweet rolls.. . juices and coffee. Some of us, (yes, including me) made the mistake of eating a nice sized breakfast. We left to visit the Aramco Compound where we learned of the history of Saudi Aramco, of the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia and of Saudi Arabia itself. We toured a museum and learned of oil exploration, then went to another building where, among other things we visited what is basically the computer command center for Aramco. Along the way, we are each personally greeted by our hosts. We are provided cardammon coffee and dates. The hospitality is amazing! Lunch! We had lunch with several high ranking Aramco officials (sorry, my notes aren’t with me as I didn’t think I’d get online!). Our meal was a delicious four course meal which was preceeded by cardammon coffee and dates. After lunch we visited the three training facilities developed by Aramco to strengthen young people’s academic background so they are prepared to continue their educations. Boys and girls attend separate schools. We were able to attend one college prep facility which just opened for the girls! We met first in the school’s library and were impressed by the strength of their collection. After a short break in our day, we went to dinner. A huge buffet at another hotel. See why we should have eaten a smaller breakfast? We were provided the opportunity to meet with local people, some ex-pats, some Saudi citizens. Our table was joined by a young Saudi couple and we had a very interesting conversation about politics, the consequences of America’s response to the Saudi’s after 9/11, education, expanding the Saudi Arabian economy, dating Saudi style and motherhood. You’d have to agree these were interesting topics of conversation for dinner! The conversations were enlightening and honest. No, not everyone agreed with everything said, but we’re not policians, just people trying to understand each other. We did find out that most Saudis marry in their early 20s, the exception being college educated who delat to begin a career. Dating is somewhat arranged. It is seen as a contract between families and parents are approached to arrange an engagement. The young people then start dating and if everthing is suitable, the young couple will marry. If not, they break the engagement. I’ll be keeping notes in my journal and will print here again as soon as I am able! Inshallah